January 23, 2014 by

Winter Cravings


Categories: chypres, Tags: , ,

So lately I’m craving chypres. Anybody wanna ‘splain that to me? ‘Cause I don’t get it. I’m the Floral Gal. And it’s winterrrr, for heaven’s sake.

Okay, so they are all chypres with a noticeable floral aspect. I mean, we ain’t talkin’ green meanies like Bandit here.  We’re talking mostly samples and decants and small bottles, because I don’t own large bottles of these, because other than L’Arte di Gucci*, I’ve never committed to any amount of a chypre that exceeds, say, 11ml. (Well, since my mom bought me that 1-oz. bottle of Prince Matchabelli Cachet back in high school, and even then, as I say, I didn’t buy it. It was definitely not my favorite. I suspect that Mom was trying to combat my devotion to honkin’ BWFs even then.)

What I’m wearing: samples of Roja Dove Diaghilev and Pierre de Velay Extrait No. 11 (which is, in a way, another Roja Dove creation, and those two have similar DNA), as well as Carthusia Lady. Also a decant of Leonard de Leonard (which puts me in mind of Cachet, although I have not smelled it in any iteration since about 1992). There are people who would call the Leonard a green floral, but they would be wrong; that is definitely a mossy-ambery drydown. I am wanting Soivohle Centennial every day still, but since I only have an 11ml bottle I can’t wear it every day as I would like.  My sweetie Mary Greenwell Plum is not chypre enough; it’s too summery and bright for these cold days.  I have not yet busted out the vintage (60s?) Coty Chypre or my teeny-tiny 2ml bottle of Mitsouko parfum from 1990, but perhaps I will tomorrow. Or next week.

What’s puzzling me is that yeah, I do go through these cycles of wanting certain types of fragrances. Last spring, it was all floral leathers. At times in the past, it’s been white florals.

Also puzzling me is that it’s winter. Why not ambers or spicy things or vanillas or traditionally warm things?

Chypres? Me? Now?

Why? It no make sense.

How about you, do you go through cycles like that?

*L’Arte is a ROSE chypre. In general, I love those. In these other things I’m wanting lately, the florals are very well blended and the focus is more on the chypre than the floral part.


8 Responses to Winter Cravings

  1. Natalie

    I like the times when I’m craving a specific thing, because when satisfying that craving is so easy and, well, satisfying. Being in the mood for something sweet, but not a particular sweet thing, is a gamble. Wanting chocolate cake? Easy peesy lemon squeezy! Done! 🙂 As for chypres, maybe it is that warm bristly green thing they do?

    It’s warm where I am, and I’m in a big white floral mode, which seems seasonally appropriate, if a little unusual for me.

    • mals86 Post author

      It’s funny, I usually go through the big craving for white florals about now. And chypres are not my usual thing, where BWFs are. So I don’t get it.

      There’s something sharp, I think, in the chypres I have been wearing lately. Last night I did crack open that tiny bottle of Coty Chypre, and while it was lovely, it has aged into something very very mellow and beautiful, and it really did not hit the spot. Too soft. (As you might guess, the citrus in the top is dead gone. And the entire thing is so blended and soft.)

  2. ChickenFreak

    Yep, I go through cycles every single time the temperature changes. Sometimes I think that I go through a subtler cycle every time day length flips–that is, from getting-shorter to getting-longer. I see that this time last year was the time that I disliked all my favorites, but liked Cuir Venenum–a floral leather. And Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo. It’ll be interesting to see if that happens again.

    • mals86 Post author

      I usually do a seasonal switch, that feels normal to me. I like going all-floral in the summer, I like changing to woods and spicies in the fall… It’s the Only One Thing Will Do aspect that’s surprising me, because typically it’s a range of things I like. But last spring (well, I admit, the weather was weird last spring, it was cold and cloudy and we were almost to summer before any of my usual spring scents made any sense at all) ALL I wanted was Cuir de Lancome and Jolie Madame.

      And now I’m digging the… hmm… sharpness? I guess it’s that, the sharp aspect of chypres. (Ooh. wonder what would happen if I retried Bandit in my current mood, because every time I’ve tried it before, I have haaaaaated it.)

  3. Zazie

    I hear you!
    While I go through cycles of perfume cravings, sometimes there are exceptions and I feel the urge to wear fragrances that are not usually my thing…
    A couple of autumns ago I had this yearning for real, dark and deep chypres which was unfortunate since my access to decants, splits and ebay vintage treasures is nihl. I wore extensively my only resource, a vintage Mitsouko edt, later joined by samples of an almost dupe – party in manhattan. it was a monotonous autumn.
    Right now I’m in an gourmand phase which seems to never end. Odd. I don’t go too sweet, but still. I bought a bottle of Vanille absolument and enjoying it like crazy. And I waft Montale Intense tiaré every other day….go figure!
    Enjoy your chypres! I envy that coty!

    • mals86 Post author

      I’m wondering if I will go through a gourmand stage too… there are a few I like. I have a small decant of Havana Vanille (the first name of that V Absolument), and it’s nice. Lasts forevvvvver too.

      The Coty is gorgeous, but aged enough to have lost a lot of its prickly character.

  4. Blacknall Allen

    You think maybe we’ve changed places?

    Have been rolling in white florals with abandon and noticing that I don’t have any chypres left in my wardrobe. This is unheard of because I’ve always had chypres- the way Bogey and Ingrid always had Paris-and now none are left.
    So yes, the answer is I must go through these odd cycles too.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.