Tuberose Series: L’Artisan Tubereuse

(As always, please forgive the lack of diacritical marks.) I’m not yet bored with tuberose in general, but some of these things are starting to smell alike. L’Artisan’s Tubereuse bored the pants off me.

Perfume Review: L’Artisan Tubereuse

Date released: 1978

Perfumer: none listed

Sample provenance: sample from swap, labeled as originally coming from The Perfumed Court

Subcategory: Typical buttery tuberose soliflore

Sadly for me, all these tuberose scents are starting to blend into one another. According to the notes, I should be smelling tuberose, orange blossom, jasmine, and coconut. Um, no. What tuberose I smell bounces back and forth between buttery and chemical. In fact, Tubereuse smells somewhat like somebody lifted a chunk out of Amarige’s formula and just bottled it. It’s a disappointing offering from the niche house that brought us Premier Figuier and Dzing!

Tubereuse has been around for awhile but rumors suggest it may be discontinued. Elena at Perfume Shrine hints that L’Artisan is planning to release a new tuberose scent in the spring of 2010.  She speculates that the new scent, composed by Bertrand Duchaufour, will replace the rather simple Tubereuse much in the same way that the new L’A vanilla scent, Havana Vanille, “replaced” the older Vanilia.

Whenever I have a really negative response to a particular scent, I try to wear it several more times if possible, particularly if the scent has some rabid fans (Tubereuse Criminelle comes to mind). I might have missed something the first or second time around – for reviews, I always test twice at a minimum. It took me four wearings to fall hard for Alahine, for example, and Ivoire de Balmain had to grow on me in the right weather. However, both times I wore Tubereuse I found myself waiting impatiently for it to wear off so I could put something interesting on, and when I checked other reviews, they tended to be weighted towards either “I don’t like it” or “There are better tuberoses out there,” with only the occasional “I like this, it smells like tropical flowers.” My theory on Tubereuse is that it came into being at about the time that Fracas was a bit down on its luck and smelling thin, and if not for that fact, it would have disappeared quickly. There is absolutely no reason for it to continue existing.

Quality      C. Smells like a mix of synthetic and natural tuberose; unimaginative composition.

Grab-scale score     3    In its favor, it does smell like tuberose. But it put me to sleep, and not in a comforting way.

Short description    Boring tuberose.

Cost   $$$   More expensive than it ought to be.

Earns compliments:    Those polled were noncommittal.

Scent presence   Moderate.  Moderate sillage.  Lasts 4-5 hours.

Review Report:  Bois de Jasmin, Now Smell This, fragrantica


10 thoughts on “Tuberose Series: L’Artisan Tubereuse”

  1. Ha!! I feel like I keep coming up with ways to disagree with you– it’s starting to border on perversity!!

    This is the ONLY soliflore tuberose that I truly love– swoony, topical, milky, magnificent. Only it’s too strong for me to wear– I have to love it from afar…

  2. I just don’t do well with L’Artisan 🙁 Which is sad, because seeing as literally the only places to buy perfume in Baltimore are Sephora, Macy’s, Nordstrom, and bluemercury, L’Artisan is the only niche brand in the whole damn city!

  3. Rita… I’m beginning to think that the phenomenon of Evil Scent Twins must exist. I was skeptical, but no more. I am really looking forward to reading about your tuberose adventures – is that forthcoming?

    Ari, there aren’t a great number of L’A scents that I like. I’m a little jealous of your access to perfume shopping, as I live in the sticks and have to order everything. (I mean, EVERYTHING. I’m 50 miles from a Macy’s even.)

  4. I can’t believe we talked about this at almost the same time and went in opposite directions. 🙂
    Now that you mentioned B. Duchafour’s work for L’Artisan – I also prefer Vanilia to Havana Vanille. I wonder what their new tuberose is going to smell like and if I’ll like it better.

  5. Ines – that IS funny that we took opposite positions, isn’t it?? I suppose if the L’A was the only tuberose I’d ever smelled, I’d be in total love with it. It’s just that as my experience of tuberoses has broadened, I’m getting, um, pickier. I didn’t like Vanilia much, by the way, but I think that’s because my skin must sweeten things up. Vanilia was borderline “accident in a candy factory” on me. Eek.

    CF – the STA/ESTA machine would be TOTALLY COOL! I have already identified which other ‘fume bloggers I’m likely to share tastes with, although it’s never exactly congruent with mine. (Closest so far: Flora [Donna] at PST and Abigail at ISTIA. If they like something, the odds are good that I will too.)

  6. L’ARTISAN TUBEREUSE does NOT have orange blossom in it, THANKFULLY!!

    The notes are: narcissus, tuberose, ylang-ylang, coconut milk.

    I love this simple but luxurious blend. The coconut milk gives it just the right touch. I think it is a great balance between crisp and smooth, and it is my favourite summer perfume for the past 20 years.

    I carry it around in the water bottle section of my messenger bag and spray it on while I am standing on the subway platform. I get crowds gathered around me, asking me what the scent is.

    It is discontinued and the replacement is way too complicated a scent, with the trendy pink pepper and spice combo that all scents seem to have these days. Now that is BORING!

    1. Hi, Churchs! Glad you came by to comment – and I’m glad to see that Tubereuse has its fans. I think that by the time I reviewed it, I’d already found several other tuberose scents that I liked far, far better, so I was disappointed in its simplicity. I was also disappointed that I seemed to be smelling a synthetic tuberose, when L’Artisan has a reputation for using more natural materials, and tuberose absolute is so terrific on its own. I felt that I’d really rather have plain tuberose absolute than the L’A version. I don’t remember where I got that list of notes from – fragrantica just says tuberose, ylang, and coconut – but like you, I certainly don’t smell orange blossom in there. Which is fine with me, I’m not a big OB fan.

      I think the new one, Nuit de Tubereuse, is very intricate – and while I actually do like pink pepper, trendy or not, NdT was not instant love. I like it, I think it’s interesting… I don’t want a bottle.

      It’s nice to see so many new scents taking tuberose as a central note, since I love it so much. I hope you can find a backup bottle of Tubereuse – since it’s discontinued, bottles will probably start making their way to the discounters soon, and maybe you can pick up a bargain.

  7. It smelled kind of grainy to me. And like orange blossom. I didn’t get the tuberose at all. To it’s credit, though, it did smell expensive, and a little bit different. I picked up on a lavender note.

    1. Huh, lavender. If that’s in there, it might be one reason I didn’t like it. I’m not an OB fan, either.

      There definitely is a tuberose note, but I’d swear it’s some real stuff blended with some lab-created…

      Grainy?? Interesting description! I will say that I didn’t like the “texture” of it – it felt oily to me, not creamy or satiny.

      There are plenty of other fish in the sea, I say.

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