The Return of Mini-Review Roundup!! June 4, 2013

YAY! I finally feel like writing mini-reviews.

Osmanthus fragrans 'Fudingzhu'Parfums d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite – Sadly, I cannot remember who sent me this lovely decant (scatterbrain!), but I am enjoying it in this warm weather.  I have only smelled live osmanthus/tea olive blossoms once, and that was briefly, when we visited South Carolina a few years ago, in swellllltering heat.  I only recall that they smelled wonderful.  Osmanthus Interdite contains a good slug of rose as well as apricotty osmanthus, and it is primarily floral with a fruity overtone.  Fragrantica says the notes are : Fruity accord, apricot, tea, osmanthus, jasmine, rose, leather and musk. There’s nothing of Luca Turin’s vaunted “apricot/suede/soap/tea” accord here – well, maybe a hint of tea, but no soap (and I get soap out of a lot of fragrances, many more than I’d like) and no leather.  Oh well. Because this is very beautiful, and lasts several hours on me.  I’m still trying to find something that smelled like a shower gel I had in the late 80s called “Peach Rose Hyacinth” – and this is not quite it, but it’s close.

Isn't this a delightful montage?
Isn’t this a delightful montage?

Vero Profumo Mito – this is my first foray into the world of Vero Kern’s highly personal and well-regarded fragrances. Bloggers and fumeheads of my acquaintance raved about this scent when it was first released, and I thought, “Hey, good for Vero, everybody loves it, doesn’t sound like my cuppa.” I heard “woody” and “citrusy” and “mossy,” and I knew that didn’t even vaguely resemble something I’d wear.  But here’s the full notes list: Citruses, galbanum, champaca, jasmine, magnolia, hyacinth, cypress, moss.  Toss the galbanum and all those white flowers in, and you come closer to something I find compatible – and thank goodness, that’s what I get. Yes, there is citrus, but it burns off pretty quickly for me. Lots of white florals, lots of moss, some galbanum and a resiny fir thing, and the entire scent seems so very retro-1970s in such a lovely way. The scent seems to call for white gloves and a sheath dress, and it isn’t something I’d be terribly comfortable in, but it really is wonderful. Calls up the ghost of Miss Dior and just smells so nice. Would be great on men as well.

(Image from "This Means War." Stolen from somewhere online, can't find it now, sorry.)
(Image from “This Means War.” Stolen from somewhere online and cropped, can’t find it now, sorry.)

Amouage Memoir Woman EXTRAIT – Yes, they make some Amouages in extrait, be still my beating heart. My wallet is running and hiding now – I think they go for something like $700 per 50ml, way way way out of my budget. Whoa. Y’all know I love Memoir W in edp (see my original long-winded review here), and when Dear Daisy the Queen Enabler sent me a bit of the extrait and I put a dab on my thumb, it put paid to my getting anything productive done the rest of the day. Because this thing damps down the Serge-Noire-y herbal stuff and the gorgeous white florals (which I do love, really) in favor of the rugged basenotes, like leather and moss and styrax and labdanum. And leather. Did I say leather? Honey, this thang is like Tom Hardy in a leather jacket.  I mean, stop the horses.  Overall I prefer the edp, but the extrait is another beast entirely.

Okay, Rose de Siwa smells like rose. But it also smells like the Sarah Bernhardt peonies I love. I have a huge bouquet on my table right NOW.
Okay, Rose de Siwa smells like rose. But it also smells like the Sarah Bernhardt peonies I love. I have a huge bouquet on my table right NOW.

Parfums MDCI Rose de Siwa – Ahhh, pink roses. Pink dewy roses and peonies, in the morning, so fresh and pretty that you can’t help falling a little bit in love.  I have steadfastly ignored every MDCI that’s come down the pike – I originally said Amouage was too rich for my blood, and now I own a bottle of Memoir, a hefty decant of Lyric, and a small one of Ubar, having fallen hard, so I have insisted that I don’t need any more spendy loves. But this one could change my mind. For one thing, it’s composed by Francis Kurkdjian, and I generally have very good luck with his output. For another, this smells in spirit very much like my beloved Sarah Bernhardt peonies (I think all peonies should be light pink, because I am prejudiced!), which happen to be huuuuuge this year, blooms seven inches across and I’m not joking. They are gorgeous.  Peonies remind me of my grandmother Nell, who grew them, my grandmother Sarah Lou, who loved them and called them “pinies,” my sister, who used them in her wedding, and my daughter, whose birthday coincides with their blooming.  The notes list for Rose de Siwa includes, yes, peony, litchi, hawthorn, rose, violet, cedar, vetiver and musk.  I repeat, gorgeous. If a bottle of this fell from the sky I would give a bit of it to every woman in my family, so we could smell realistic peonies and sigh together.


12 thoughts on “The Return of Mini-Review Roundup!! June 4, 2013”

  1. Oh, nice to know of a realistic peony scent! So many supposed peony perfumes are really just watery roses. But I’m not sure I can do it with MDCI. If it falls into my lap… **crosses fingers, looks at sky**

    The Osmanthus Interdite sounds lovely too… I’ve been toying with doing the sample set from them.

    1. Well, it does have a definite rose angle. But really fresh and lovely. And yeah, MDCI… AARGH. It’s bad enough I’m lusting after that Memoir extrait.

      PdE does some good stuff. I really like Eau Suave, and 3 Fleurs is nice too… what’s the other one I liked? Can’t remember.

  2. You sure are making me wish for some of that Memoir extrait. Lawsy. That sounds too fantastic. LEATHER.

    And the Roses di Siwa is also good to know about, as otherwise I would also have passed them by entirely (not a line I have any loves in). Peonies were my wedding bouquet and I have a soft spot for them and haven’t yet found a perfect peony perfume (though I have some of L’Occitane’s Peonies? I think it’s just called, and want some of Penhaligon’s Peoneve. I liked the sample I tried. It wasn’t quite the girly bouquet thing I was looking for, though, and it sounds as though Roses de Siwa might be.

    1. Gah, Memoir extrait. Somebody slip me some extra Benjamins so I can get me some…

      Rose de Siwa is really lovely! I adore peonies – wasn’t expecting to find them in a rose-named thing, but I had it on my wrist and was passing by the bouquet in the kitchen, and it was unmistakably peony-rose.

  3. I love peonies. Wish they grew better out this way, I’d love a Sarah Bernhardt bush in my yard. Sigh. I have the Parfum d’Empire sample set and haven’t tried Interdite yet. I got hung up on Equistrius. I keep trying to avoid the MDCI’s because of the priciness of them all. It’s bad enough I broke down and bought a decant of Mito, after my husband said he loved and it and I should get a bottle of it. That is, until I told him the price, which he audibly choked on. I expect I’d get the same reaction for the MDCI’s.

    1. Peonies make me happy. 🙂 I haven’t tried all the PdEs, but the ones I’ve tried I’ve enjoyed; haven’t felt like I needed any of them, though.

      MDCIs are RiDONKulously expensive. Even if you get the non-bust bottles. And the Veros too. I actually feel relieved that I don’t crave Mito — I’ll enjoy this sample and let it go at that.

  4. Osmanthus Interdite was an almost buy for me, and so was Eau Suave, but somehow Romance never culminates with Marriage between me and PdEs.

    What did you think of Rose Pivoine, seeing as how you like the Parfums de Nicolai? Much less soft than the Siwa, but in a similar vein.

    1. Yes, I have yet to really fall for a PdE.

      I… um… haven’t gotten to Rose Pivoine yet. (And I have to finish getting this package ready for you. ACK.)

  5. Tom Hardy, mini reviews and peonies, YEA! Peonies are wonderful. Agreed, Rose di Siwa is simply pret-ty. As in Maria singing, “I feel pretty.” And yes, I’d share it will all my girlfriends so they could have that moment, too, if a bottle fell into my lap 😀 I loved Un Coeur en Mai pre-reformulation to distraction, but not enough to spring for FB purchase. Too steep!

    And Blacknall, I like Rose Pivoine, too, though I think it is a tad more synthetic and jammy smelling. . .but very pretty. The price is right for me. I have a 30mL that I love.

    Mito. . .should ring my bell by the note list, but does not. Same with OJ’s Tiare. Can’t explain why, but neither is love for me. I like and appreciate both, but both are near misses, though much loved on the ‘net. To each his own. I still think it is a skin thing. Both have a sharpness that turns bitter on me, and I adore galbanum (Chamade extrait is one of my favorites). Happy sniffing and experimenting!

    1. Well, of COURSE Tom Hardy! I mean, that Memoir extrait was sexxaaay. (And we watched Inception Sunday night. Again.)

      I did not love the OJ Tiare, which reminded me to some degree of Cristalle (which I also don’t love). I felt slightly more in tune with Mito, but only slightly, and it was probably the galbanum making the difference!

  6. Glad to hear that Mito is not mesmerizing for everybody Hemlock, otherwise what would my poor pocket book do?

    And don’t worry about packages Mals. I get guff enough because my daughter feels all the packages that arrive chez us are “never for ME”. So please take your time.

  7. Funny how if one is thinking about a set of notes, perfumes appear? I was handed a sample of Cartier’s L’Heure Diaphane (VIII), which is a beautiful rose, peony, musk and lychee perfume. Normally lychee would be a deal breaker, but it is not overly sweet, and adds a jammy quality. The fragrance lives up to its name, remaining transparent. Nice feat. Admittedly, it’s just as sillily expensive as Rose de Siwa, perhaps worse, but I thought I’d put it on your radar to try. It is lovely. Dag barned it ;D

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