Perfume Review: Jacomo Silences eau de parfum Sublime, plus a sample drawing

Some of you might remember how much I whined over the news of a reformulated Silences last year, because, yeah, I was whiny on the level of an  overtired three-year-old. Sorry ’bout that.

First, because I made you read it. Second, because I was wrong.

The new take on the very-70s original is that good.  You do have to be a fan of green scents, I’d hazard, but I definitely am.  Just the other day I was listing my extensive collection of scents I wear in spring, and most of them are green florals, of course.

This color combo looks a lot like my mental image of Silences.
This color combo looks a lot like my mental image of Silences.

Silences edp Sublime reminds me not so much of its predecessor, which is relentlessly, eerily green with lashings of rose and iris, as it does of a gentle version of Chanel No. 19.

I was disappointed in Chanel’s updated flanker of No. 19, titled Poudre, as to my nose it was barely green at all and seemed to be mostly clean white musk with hints of dry iris. While pleasant, Poudre seems more closely related to Prada’s ubiquitous, nicely-done Infusion d’Iris, with perhaps a tiny green veil.Silences edp sublimeSilences Sublime, as I’ll call it for the duration of the review, opens up with the gentle bite of galbanum and a very small hint of blackcurrant bud, both rather subdued, along with a light veil of aldehydes. You might not even notice the cassis bud at all – it’s gone quickly and doesn’t have that big cat-pee hit (hey, I like the cat-pee thing, but I know it’s controversial). More prominent is the floral heart, where rose is joined by a delicate lily of the valley note and  a tiny bit of floral dirt from the narcissus.  The iris seems to pop up with the basenotes (woody notes, vetiver and musk), and it’s lovely in a very quiet way for a good four hours.

Sillage is mild to moderate unless you try the spray-until-wet technique, and then it’s only moderate; longevity is really more like edt than edp on my skin. Silences Sublime strikes me as being really a hot-weather kind of fragrance, a dry cooling breeze that soothes my grizzled temper and lends a bit of elegance without the ramrod posture that No. 19 evokes.

As for comparing the Sublime to the original – well, for one thing, the original version of Silences that I own myself is parfum de toilette, and it is a galbanum monster that lasts allll day even in humid summer. (I feel certain that more modern Silences eau de toilette is lighter than the almost-oily pdt.) Silences is the sweet pink color of rose, the calm blue-purple-grey color of iris, the clover green of galbanum and the olive green of moss, satiny ribbons that trail out behind you in unexpected, arresting beauty, as you wander in quiet contemplation.  Silences Sublime has much less presence, and as I say, seems much closer to No. 19 in character than to Silences. I suspect the addition of aldehydes to Sublime and the base’s focus on vetiver-musk rather than moss creates that likeness.

This looks like the color scheme for Silences Sublime, too. Well, perhaps it needed a bit more pink, but it's close.
This looks like the color scheme for Silences Sublime, too. Well, perhaps it needed a bit more pink, but it’s close.

I am enjoying Silences Sublime very, very much, and find it even easier to wear than Chanel No. 19 (which can be a little demanding of my attention – delightfully so, but still demanding).  It’s quite reasonably priced, and I bought my 100ml bottle via New London Pharmacy’s website for under $80 shipped. Lovely stuff. Jacomo really should make it more easily available in the US, because I predict it would sell beautifully.

Sometime soon I really should create a diagram showing Silences, Silences Sublime, Chanel No. 19 in various concentrations including Poudre, Annick Goutal Heure Exquise (in edt and edp), Calandre, Rive Gauche, and Madame Rochas on a continuum, because they all seem somewhat related to me along an axis of green notes/galbanum, aldehydes, rose, iris, vetiver, moss and musk.  Clearly that note combination is a favorite of mine (though I’m not as fond of Rive Gauche and Mme Rochas as I am of the others).

I’m offering two 2.5-ml spray samples of Jacomo Silences eau de parfum Sublime.  To enter, please say you’re interested and tell me whether you like any of the scents on my hypothetical continuum.  (It’s okay to say you’ve never investigated any of them. I hope to pull you in!) Drawing will close on Thursday at noon Eastern Standard Time. Drawing is now closed.


22 thoughts on “Perfume Review: Jacomo Silences eau de parfum Sublime, plus a sample drawing”

  1. I am interested in your sample of Silences Sublime. I have owned and worn Calandre for 34 years. I like No 19, but do not own any. The others I have not sniffed. Thanks for the draw!

  2. This review has me chomping at the bit. This sounds so perfectly like something right up my alley. Oh, I am very, very, very interested. I am sooo close to blind buying this, but I have a promise to myself not to blind buy anything because I feel guilty about the money spent when it doesn’t work out. Chanel No. 19 is one of my all time favorite greens. I have Heure Exquise in both the EdT and EdP. I have a teeny tiny sample of the original Silences in PdT. Of course I love Parfums de Nicolai’s Le Temps d’Une Fete. I didn’t really like Rive Gauche, but I’ll chalk that up to trying a modern reformulated version. I haven’t gone about finding any Madam Rochas yet. Oh and did I mention I love No.19?

  3. I am a perfume newbie, and I have not tried any of the fragrances you have mentioned here, but they are all on my ‘to try’ list. I am really wanting to branch out of my Oriental Vanilla safety zone and this might do it. Thanks for offering to share samples! Lovely reviews here too :)))

    1. Oh, good!! Yeah, these are all green florals (more or less, except maybe Mme Rochas which I’d call an aldehydic musk instead), which is a coupla zones over from your oriental vanilla safety zone… but you never know! You’re in the draw.

      1. Thanks! I am open to trying anything and everything because I really want to learn how to discern and appreciate all of these different notes and fragrance groups. I have had a few surprises so far 🙂

  4. I love #19, I have a small amount of vintage that I use sparingly. I have two different bottles of Silences, one mini that I think is vintage and a recently bought edt spray that is a little bit different, I enjoy them both. I recently got a sample at Nordstrom of #19 Poudre, okay, but not interesting. I would adore to try the Silences Sublime, I have sworn off blind buys unless they are samples.

  5. I really dislike No. 19 in the concentrations that I have tried, which is modern EDT and the Poudre flanker. I am willing to give it another chance. I think in part because I don’t like it that much, I have not really sought out most of the fragrances on your continuum.

    The only fragrance that you list that I remember liking quite a bit is Rive Gauche. But it’s been forever since I tried it. I do have a eensy decant of Calandre at home that I got in a recent swap that I really need to test.

    Over the weekend I tried a green lily-moss thing that I liked very much, Parfums de Nicolai Odalisque. Very much recommended.

    I also like the Maison Martin Margiela Untitled, which is greeny. And DSH’s Vert pour Madame. I think things that are GREEN and COLD tend to scare me off. Things that are GREEN and WARM, I may in fact appreciate and enjoy. I don’t know, that’s my working theory.

    1. The modern edt is thin and the Poudre is really dull, so you may not have met the “real” No. 19 yet. RIve Gauche, Calandre and Mme Rochas I like a good bit less than the others I mentioned, but they’re similar. Probably more aldehydic and less green than the Silences Sublime, but they’re related.

      Odalisque is very nice – didn’t love it, but it’s indeed nice and might grow on me if I had a bottle. MMM Untitled smelled more like something I’d like to have in a home fragrance than something I’d wear, and it had a distinct ashtray note to it as well, so that one didn’t work for me. Vert pour Madame has a Youth-Dew thing down in the base, IIRC, that just killed the thing for ME, but the rest of it was nice. I would call Untitled “cold” rather than “warm,” but other than that I’m buying your theory.

  6. I’d love to try this as it’s getting good reviews all around. Some of the “green ” scents that I like are Byredo Green (is that too obvious), vintage Chanel 19, Balmain Ivoire, En Passant. Thanks for the draw!

  7. I like Silences and I love No 19 EdT and Heure Exquise so I’m extremely curious to try this perfume.

    Poudre was neither here nor there for me and I suspect I would have liked Rive Gauche better if I’d tried a better preserved sample.

    1. I think you will like it, provided that you can think of it as a sort of “summer version” or Eau de No. 19. It doesn’t have the presence or the sillage of 19 or Silences, or HE for that matter, but I believe I’ll wear it pretty frequently when the weather is hot.

      I’m not a big Rive Gauche fan either – OR Calandre, and I’m not quite sure why I don’t love them.

  8. No. 19 doesn’t like me – I think it’s the leather in the base – but I own full bottles of Heure Exquise and Silences and loooove them, and my other green loves are Bel Respiro and 1000 Flowers Fleur No. 1 (Have you tried it yet? To my nose it’s half-way between LTdF and Silences). I’d be delighted to give this a whirl, thanks for the draw, Mals!

    1. Heure Exquise is lovely, and if I’d met it first instead of No. 19 I might have switched my preferences… but possibly not. I loved the drydown of 19 from the start.

      Bel Respiro is too citrusy for me, and also goneinaflash ZIP missed it! But don’t know Fleur No. 1. I remember everybody being all psyched for 1000 Flowers REglisse Noire (I do have that right, don’t I?), but I don’t think I heard much about the Fleur.
      You’re in the draw!

  9. I’d like to enter the draw, as I’m a big fan of green fragrances. My favorites are No. 19, Heure Exquise, Calandre, Debut, and Envy. Thank you!

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