Mini-Reviews Roundup, May 24, 2012

The short version: Two duds and a perfectly acceptable fragrance this week.

La Prairie Life Threads Platinum – I haven’t heard much about this thing in a couple of years, since La Prairie put out its Life Threads trio. This was the one that perfumistas seemed to like best, but after smelling it on my skin, I have to wonder whether it was mere comparison to Pink Sugar and frooty florals that made an impression. Platinum is vaguely chypre-ish, but manages to be both soapy and thin. My first thought: Kudos for the game plan, but zero points for execution.

After it’s been on skin for about two hours, it reminds me of the faded far drydown of Deneuve or Miss Dior (though less powdery than Miss Dior). It’s quite wearable at that point, but still far too thin. I can’t imagine who actually bought this. Why wouldn’t you just go buy a bottle of not-too-ancient Miss Dior on Ebay? Heck, even current Miss Dior might be an improvement. Or if you really like chypres, why not buy DSH Perfumes’ perfectly-stunning (if not very “me”) Pandora, or Vert pour Madame?

Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur – I do love a greeny scent! This one starts out too citrusy for me – very limey – but nice all the same, and the green notes (basil, violet leaf) take over pretty quickly. Beautiful. Simple. Eventually settles into a pleasant grassy, herbal scent with haylike notes. There’s actually patchouli in this, but it must be the aged stuff, because there’s nothing musty or earthy about it. Me likey.

On the other hand, nobody in my family liked this. The CEO much prefers girly stuff (which this is definitely not) on me, and Bookworm wrinkled her nose. Ths scent lasts about five hours, shrinking down to the skin after about two hours. I enjoyed it. I’ll probably use up all the drops in my sample vial.

Caron Nocturnes (vintage, from swap, concentration unknown but I’d guess EdT) – I knew this was a floral aldehyde, and I vaguely remember Perfumes: The Guide not being very complimentary about it, saying something like “predictably pretty.” The aldehydes pop up at first notice, and they’re both sparkly and soapy (there must be at least two kinds of aldehydes in there). There are florals (a flat/soapy orange blossom, jasmine, and a pleasant rose), a sweetish sandalwood, and a heckuva lotta musk. Actually, you know, I am starting to wonder if this was what my anal-retentive, OCD, perfectionistic piano teacher wore, because once I’d had it on for twenty minutes, I started thinking up excuses for why I hadn’t even touched the piano during the previous week.

(I can play. Of course, I’m nowhere near concert caliber, even for an audience of easygoing retirees, but I’m a decent accompanist and I can bang out hymns with the best of them.)

I usually like aldehydic florals, particularly vintage ones, but this isn’t doing a thing for me. I mean, it’s perfectly pleasant if you have no associations with Mrs. Montague (Elma) Swain, or if you enjoy smelling like you just finished a bath with Camay soap. I do to the first case, and I don’t to the second.

For gosh sakes, where the heck is my Iris Poudre decant?? I love IP and tend to save it for special occasions, but drastic times call for drastic measures.

All photos from Fragrantica.


6 thoughts on “Mini-Reviews Roundup, May 24, 2012”

  1. It’s really interesting with Atelier Cologne – at first everyone loved them, and now everyone seems to have tired of them. I still have samples of most of the original range, and I enjoy wearing them in summer. Might pull out Trefle Pur tomorrow based on your review – I think it’s the one I spent the last time with.

    I’ve never tried the Life Threads, but I have a sample of one of them sitting around…

    Too bad about Nocturnes. It’s a great name. I have half a mind to do a huge series of aldehydic floral reviews… will add it to the list.

    1. Trefle Pur is the only Atelier I’ve tried. It’s nice. I was put off by the price point, I think.

      About aldehydes… I need to get back to my AldeHo series as well! Nocturnes didn’t make me happy enough to add it to that series, but I need to do Muse de Coty.

  2. Atelier did make a big entry on the niche scene and their ad copy is still my favourite of all perfume houses (not that that is saying much, I guess, given the usual standard … ) I sampled most of the Ateliers mainly because they now have much smaller bottles than the whoppers they started out with. That brought them within my reach. But Trefle Pur made little impression on me, and it did not last long on my skin. I must dig out my sample for another try.

    The only Atelier I really like is Vanille Insensee, a handsome, dry vanilla with herbal facets. Very pleasant, and lasts all day (unlike all the other Ateliers I have tried). I decided not to go the full bottle tho’. An 8 ml decant is fine. Orange Snguine is pretty, but fleeting.

    1. I have a vague memory of someone… was it Olenska? can’t remember… showing off the lovely packaging of the Ateliers on her blog, including the ad copy.

      This is one of those lines I can’t try unless I order samples, and I suppose I’ve just felt that I’ll stick to my two favorite indie houses (DSH and SSS) instead.

      I also have a vague memory that Atelier is mostly-natural composition, and I usually have poor luck with longevity of mostly-naturals (exceptions being Vamp a NY and DSH Rose Vert) – and vanilla is one of the notes that does stick around for awhile on me.

      (I didn’t actually lose my IP decant… it was more a device for making the point that if I’m wearing something aldehydic, that’s what I’d pick. Especially as an antidote to OCD, perfectionistic Mrs. Swain…)

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