There’s such a wonderful freshness to green fragrances, it would be a shame to only enjoy them on a day honoring the “wearin’ o’ the green.” Green florals – especially galbanum ones – are some of my perennial favorites, so here’s a short list of some I really love:
First, and always: Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d’une Fete. This lovely green thing has, as I’ve mourned over the past year, been first reformulated to be lighter and then labeled by the perfume house as “available on demand.” (It is nowhere to be found on the PdN website, though Parfum1 and LuckyScent* have the 1 oz bottles in stock, $45 to $50.) Notes: galbanum, narcissus, jasmine, hyacinth, styrax, opoponax, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, woody notes.
Green-gold perfection, love at first sniff for me. I have waxed rhapsodic about it many times since I started blogging in 2009.
Guerlain Chamade. Another beautiful green floral, but one that melts from chilly green through golden heart to creamy-yellow drydown, a transformation I like to think of as being extremely romantic. I have a decant of 1980s parfum de toilette that’s quite powdery, a bottle of 1970s eau de toilette that has deteriorated aldehydes up top but smells wonderful after ten minutes, and a cherished 2ml bottle of parfum. Gorgeous. I hear it still smells, unbelievably, like itself. Notes: aldehydes, galbanum, hyacinth, jasmine, bergamot, rose, lilac, clove, muguet, tolu balsam, peru balsam, sandalwood, amber, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver.
Chanel No. 19. Another chilly one, but so beautiful in its reserve. I have some vintage EdT (the new stuff is thin, I say) and recent EdP (rosier than the EdT, far less vetivery and without the hint of leather present in the old EdT). Oddly, I never liked the parfum. It’s almost too backbony for me – too much iris, I think. Nobody does iris more thoroughly than Chanel. Notes: neroli, green notes, bergamot, iris, narcissus, rose, muguet, vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, and leather. A silvery, elegant green.
Jacomo Silences. Another silvery green, this time with streaks of pink and cool gray-lavender. There’s so much juicy galbanum in my bottle of parfum de toilette that it practically slaps you upside the head before trailing those silky rose-and-iris ribbons past you. I have not smelled the EdT, but I am guessing it would be perfectly at home on a man; the PdT is a little rich and floral, perhaps, for the typical man’s usage. Notes: orange blossom, galbanum, bergamot, lemon, green notes, cassia, iris, jasmine, narcissus, hyacinth, rose, muguet, vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, cedar and ambrette.
[The fragrance was “updated” in 2013 and rereleased as Silences Eau de Parfum Sublime. I whined about it until I smelled it, and then I changed my mind: it smells lighter than original Silences and has a more floral, less mossy character. Notes for the updated version: aldehydes, galbanum, blackcurrant bud, pear, rose, iris, narcissus, woodsy notes and musk. Silences Sublime, as I like to call it, smells a great deal like the way I had expected Chanel No. 19 Poudre to smell. It is better than No. 19 Poudre, if you ask me, and worth smelling if you can get your hands on it. (New London Pharmacy has it in store and online; that’s where I got my bottle.)]
Crown Perfumery Crown Bouquet. Green and white, that’s all. I find it spectacularly beautiful and refreshing, though you absolutely must like galbanum (it’s another smack-in-the-face with this cool green note). Sadly, this was discontinued when Clive Christian bought Crown Perfumery and then axed all its products so he could use their lovely crown-topped bottles. (Curse you, Mr. Christian. For shame.) Notes: galbanum, green notes, hyacinth, tuberose, orange blossom and gardenia. Described by Crown Perfumery as “the greenest of all green florals,” it was composed for the… um… interesting Wallis Simpson, the American divorcee for whom King Edward renounced the throne of England. The fragrance is, once past its green attack, very simple and garden-like, and I find it very lovely.
*I’m not affiliated with any commercial fragrance operation in any way. You probably already knew that.
What about you? Floral greens that you love?