Dear Scent Diary, Feb. 24 – Mar. 2, 2010

Wednesday, Feb. 24: SOTD: Round #3 of Heure Exquise vs. No. 19, just to make sure I didn’t miss anything the first two times. I still like No. 19 best, but I’d call it “iris-vetiver” and HE would be “rose-iris-sandalwood.” So if you want rose-iris-sandalwood, there’s your best option. HE is really pretty.

Thursday, Feb. 25: SOTD: a light spray of Miller Harris Rose en Noir. Thankfully, it wore off early – I have Taz’ stomach virus. Wasn’t sure what to make of this – it doesn’t seem much like a “rose in black” to me, but more a “rose in pale green and russet.” Elements of galbanum, spice, and something… coconutty? in the base. No notes were released for this one. I can’t decide whether I actually like it or not. Layers interestingly with Heure Exquise, believe it or not. I don’t set out to perform experiments in layering, by the way – they’re all happy accidents (or sometimes not-so-happy ones).

Friday, Feb. 26: SOTD: Tauer Une Rose Chypree. I have a dabber sample vial, and I think it will last me some time. One dab goes a long way with this stuff, and it’s got the heavy, velvety drape of something like Mitsouko. In fact, URC is probably what I’d call “wearable Mitsouko.” It was freezing cold and very windy today, and I didn’t feel overperfumed. Every time I wear URC, I think, “Boy, this is a good perfume.” But I never, ever feel that I need any more. I don’t love it. And who can explain love, or the lack of love? Wise men never try…

Saturday, Feb. 27: Three-way Fragrance Throwdown today: Givenchy Ysatis, from a partially-used vintage mini bottle bought for $3 on ebay; Divine by Divine, from a TPC sample, and Amouage Ubar (the new floriental version, not the old woody-floral one), from a private sample. (Blame Daisy. I was steadfastly ignoring Amouage; I didn’t need another Amouage after Lyric Woman; she sent me a sample anyway, and it is fantastic stuff.) I was prompted by Abigail’s review of Ysatis at I Smell Therefore I Am, where she was comparing it to Divine. I hadn’t smelled Divine – my sniff from the bottle of Ysatis had reminded me of Ubar, so I had to test all three. I’ll do a short review of the Throwdown soon.

Interestingly, I asked Gaze (my Noticer) for his thoughts on the three, without telling him what they were. He sniffed each spot carefully and pronounced that he liked all of them, and that they smelled somewhat similar to him. When pressed to name the one he liked best, he pointed to the Divine test area. Then I asked him which was was the most expensive. “That one,” he said, definitely, and pointed to Ubar. “No question about it. I mean, the other ones are nice too, I like them all, but that’s the most expensive one, and that’s the least expensive one” – pointing to Ysatis.

Well, haul my jaw off the floor. I’m raising a perfumista. One out of three, anyway. (Actually, I don’t know if Divine is more expensive than Ysatis. I’m just guessing it is because you can’t walk into Belk’s and snap up Divine, or order it from an online discounter.)

Sunday, Feb 28: Still freezing cold and windy. I’ve been missing my Dark Roses, so it was Amouage Lyric Woman today. Later, as it began to dry down, I respritzed on one wrist, and then spritzed a bit of MFK Lumiere Noire pour femme on the back of the other wrist. (These comparisons are getting out of hand, don’t you think?) I love both of these. They’re not as similar as I had thought… must review each one separately, I think.

Monday, March 1: Statement Day again at work. I hate it when Statement Day falls on a Monday. I hate dirty snow and frigid wind. SOTD: Shalimar Light.

Tuesday, March 2: Freezing and snowing again. SOTD: Carnal Flower – so beautiful.

Image is Savoir faire from JiBryant at flickr.

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8 thoughts on “Dear Scent Diary, Feb. 24 – Mar. 2, 2010”

  1. Hello Mals! I have mixed feelings for the URC too.
    I love the heart and how it slowly morphs into a gorgeous drydown.
    But (of course there is a but!) I have a real “problem” with the opening. The problem being the green mandarin accord that is really too strong for my tastes. It doesn’t last forever, it’s just a top note, but lately I find it difficult to approach fragrances with difficult openings, as there are so many lovely ones that don’t try to challenge me.
    If it wasn’t for that, I would own several of those les memorables tiny bottles!

    I have the same issue with a fragrance that I consider the white flower sister of the rosy URC. L’amoureuse.
    I love everything except that strong green mandarin.

    I would tone that note down a few notches in both those beauties, if someone asks me (nobody asked me, of course 🙁 ).

    1. Zazie, I have not yet tried Amoureuse. I have a sample awaiting test – and every time I pick it up, I think, Oops, better save that for a non-work testing opportunity, since it’s supposed to be so radiant. And then I forget about it.

      The opening of URC doesn’t bother me – I think I like the mandarin, it was the *only* thing I liked about Incense Rose, which should have had my name all over it, but was just unpleasant on me. I still don’t know why.

      And I don’t know why I don’t love URC; I just know I don’t love it.

  2. URC and Amoureuse both overwhelm me – one with incense, one with indoles, while Ubar and Ysatis mug me with civet, though oddly I did own a bottle of Ysatis in the 80s and don’t remember having trouble with the civet then. I must be the most delicately skinned person on these boards, and that is not something I am happy about, as it precludes so many ballsy scents from contention.

    1. I thought there was less civet in Ysatis than in Ubar – but isn’t there castoreum in Ysatis? (Lemme go check the excel file… no, no castoreum in the official notes, what I was remembering was that *I* thought I smelled castoreum in it.)

      Have you smelled PdN Maharanih? I ask because I detected a definitely note of cojones in the drydown. I mean, I checked it against a reliable source, and yep, cojones. Holy cow. Must be a TON of civet in that. You know, I should test it again, to see if it still bothers me or not.

  3. My feelings about URC really depend on the day – some days, I think that it’s one of the loveliest things that I’ve ever smelled and on others, it’s a musty closet. I don’t know if it’s a mood thing, weather thing, or time-of-month chemistry thing. Sadly, I never know what kind of day it’s going to be until URC is already on me and then it lasts FOREVER.

    1. I… like it. It reminded me somewhat of Ubar, which I’d tried first, with more tuberose and more moss, less muguet and vanilla and Amouage Magic. I don’t know that I need any more, as I just sprung for a 5ml decant of Ubar, and I have a 5ml bottle of Ysatis (labeled vintage, slightly used, on ebay – but who knows how old it really is?) already. Honestly, I’m not sure I’d wear Ysatis, it’s so BIG, and maybe a bit more sillagey than I usually like.

      Word is that it’s been reformulated several times with cheaper ingredients, but that it’s still pretty good.

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