I already did a post, five years ago, on violet fragrances (The Big Violet List, November 2010). But here I am wearing violets again, so I thought I’d revisit the topic. (And yes, I still hate purple. Don’t let’s dwell, ‘kay?)
Just for fun, here’s a three-second “Violet” clip from 1971’s “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory.” I was always troubled by that movie’s divergence from the book, when the book was perfectly excellent as it was! However, I loved Gene Wilder. And I loved Veruca Salt’s paean to hedonistic selfishness, “I Want It Now,” with its delightful, horrible lyric, “I want a party with roomfuls of laughter/Ten thousand tons of ice cream/And if I don’t get the things I am after/ I’m . . . going . . . to . . . scream!” (Taz can sing the heck outta that, btw.)
The 2005 Tim Burton version with Johnny Depp was equally disturbing, but for different reasons — one of which was Depp’s appearance as the love child of Carol Channing and Michael Jackson. Ugh, it’s still creeping me out. Let’s just not talk about it, hmm? Let’s just all go read the book instead.)
Back to lovely springy violets. I’m still wearing the ones I loved in 2010, but there are a few more I’ll bring to your attention. Violets are perennial, so there are changes in the violet frag-scape all the time. Guerlain’s gorgeous violet/rose/ambreine Attrape-Coeur (or Guet-Apens, or Vol de Nuit Evasion, as it was tweaked and rereleased) is gone. Alexander McQueen’s My Queen, too.
Tom Ford Black Violet hit my radar and then disappeared within that timeframe, too. But not without my seizing one of those adorable 4ml mini bottles on ebay, despite its being what Patty at Perfume Posse called “a scary violet clown” in her long discussion of violet frags (link at the end of this post). Yeah, it’s weird, and yeah, wearing it is like forcing myself to look over the edge of the balcony at the ground sixty feet below, or like watching the disturbing but sweet “Edward Scissorhands.” (There’s another Burton/Depp collaboration for you.) But there are days I crave it.
Balenciaga Le Dix has been gone for some time; so has Houbigant Demi-Jour and Diane von Furstenberg Volcan d’Amour. I’m not going to talk about the reformulations of Caron Violette Precieuse or L’Artisan Verte Violette (neither of which I liked). I can’t bear to talk about the less-violet, less-heliotrope, more-iris post-2011 refo version of Guerlain Apres l’Ondee (it was basically perfect; now it’s not).
I won’t completely rehash The Big Violet List post – it’s easy enough to click through to read it. Here are some new ones, as well as a few I didn’t mention before :
Mona d’Orio Violette Fumee – violets and tobacco.
Van Cleef & Arpels Feerie – reportedly, a fruity violet.
DSH Perfumes La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes and Giverny in Bloom – I haven’t tried the blues-and-violets, but Giverny in Bloom is a lovely galbanum smack followed by some noticeable violet and vetiver, with too many other notes to name. Reminded me just a tad of Jolie Madame (which I love).
Imaginary Authors Violet Disguise – a plummy, dried-fruity, balsamy violet, which does not sound like my sort of thing at all.
Smell Bent Violet Tendencies – leather and violet leaf.
Giorgio Armani Armani Prive Cuir Amethyste – I have a ‘fume friend who calls this one “Grape Slushee on my suede boots.”
Balenciaga Paris – citrus, violet leaf, half a violet petal, and lots of sawdust. Nice, but dull if you ask me.
Lolita Lempicka – I can’t believe I forgot to mention this little gem, green and licorice and violet and vanilla. I first tried it in Rome and have found it delightful every time I’ve tried it since, but I still don’t feel the need to own more than a sample or two.
Tom Ford Violet Blonde – The baby-aspirin/Tang-dust chemical-orange note up top pretty much ruined this one for me, but it’s violet leaf, pepper, jasmine, iris, and some woody suede. I don’t remember much actual violet in it. Do Not Want.
Serge Lutens De Profundis – I still (still!) haven’t tried this, since Oncle Serge is not my bon ami. Also, I am wary of the chrysanthemum.
Histoires de Parfum Blanc Violette – violet, a particularly vicious violet leaf, and powdery white musk. Ehhh.
Parfums d’Empire Equistrius – powdery violet iris.
LUSH/Gorilla Kerbside Violet – violet, jasmine, woody notes.
I’m still wearing Penhaligon’s Violetta and vintage Balmain Jolie Madame parfum, as well as YSL Paris. Now and then I have delusions of hunting up a bottle of CdG Stephen Jones, that weird but fascinating violets-blooming-on-black-lava-rock thing, since my sample is long gone.
What are your favorite violets, if you like them?